Tag Archives: history

Getaway to Tangier Island: Crabs, History, and the Mighty Chesapeake

Our region is in large part defined by the Chesapeake Bay watershed.  Although we in D.C. live a bit inland from the Bay itself, we still benefit from its bounty, such as blue crab feasts, seafood at the Maine Avenue Fish Market, and excursions along the shore.

But while you live in the area, it’s worth getting a total immersion into the richness and culture of the Chesapeake Bay.  To do so, take a weekend and head down to Tangier Island, located 12 miles into the middle of the Bay.  In order to get to Tangier, you must take a 1.5 hour ferry ride from either Reedville, VA or Crisfield, MD (each about 3 hours away from D.C.).  While there are day trips to the island, that option gives you only about two hours until the ferry turns around and comes back, so I’d highly recommend spending at least one night to really get a feel for the place.

photo

The island is comprised of about a thousand acres, only about a hundred of which are actually inhabited (the rest being marsh).  About 500 people live on Tangier, and since no cars are allowed bikes and golf carts are the main forms of transportation.

Tangier has an important place in American history.  Pocomoke Indians inhabited the island for many years before Europeans including John Smith arrived.  It is also historically significant because it served as the staging ground for British troops during the War of 1812.  And interestingly, to this day, residents speak in a dialect that linguists believe is very similar to the English that European settlers spoke when they first arrived in America.

photo-2

The best part of Tangier Island is the crabs and observing the economy and culture that has been built up around them.  According to locals, about 75 percent of our country’s soft shell crabs (those that have just molted out of their old shells and are soft and squishy all over) come from the area every year, and it also provides a significant amount of hard crabs, oysters, and even eels that are sold to markets in New York and other places around the country.  Because the economy is built around the crabbing, it has a feeling very similar to a New England fishing or lobster town, with little changed over the last century.

crabs

One of the must-do activities during your visit is to take a tour of a “crab shanty,” the structures on the water around the edge of the island where watermen tend to and harvest soft shell crabs.  Because the crabs harden again within a few hours of molting, the watermen must immediately ready them for packaging and shipping, meaning that they work around the clock.

The island is not much built up for tourism quite yet, which is part of its appeal.  There are three bed and breakfasts (I stayed at the Bay View Inn, which was lovely), a couple of ice cream/sandwich places, and a few gift shops.  The three restaurants which are open for dinner (one of which has a last seating at 5pm) sell mostly an array of crab-based fare, including crab cakes, soft-shell crab sandwiches, and crab bisques.  It’s worth mentioning that the island is dry, so bring your own alcohol and be discreet about it.

crab roll

Other activities to do on the island include taking in the small yet chock-full Tangier History Museum, kayaking in the marshes to see the myriad of shorebirds (including glossy ibis and black skimmers), and biking to the beach to see a sunset.

Tangier Island is truly a step back in time, and a glimpse of how and why the Chesapeake Bay is so important to our region and its economy, ecology, and shared history.

To visit:  Ferry once daily from Reedville, VA (May-October) or Crisfield, MD.  Various bed and breakfasts, as well as vacation rentals.  Go during the summer, as very little is open during the winter.

Advertisements

10 Comments

Filed under Activities, Daytripper, Local Food, Museums

The Congressional Cemetery Offers a Reflective Look at DC’s More Ordinary History

Washington, DC had an interesting beginning, founded not by pilgrims or pioneers, but by an act of Congress in 1790 to establish a “federal city” that would be the seat of government.  Over time, the new city found its character, but almost entirely lost to history are the stories of the people who helped build it into a real, thriving place where everyday life occurred.  Luckily, the Congressional Cemetery preserves theses narratives, and many more.

The cemetery, tucked between the Potomac Avenue and Stadium Armory metro stations along the Anacostia River, has been called “America’s first de facto national cemetery.”  Founded in 1807 as the Washington Parish Burial Ground, the need for a close graveyard was a sign that the young capital had grown into its own.

Today, the Congressional Cemetery, which is still open for new burials, is the final resting place for approximately 55,000 individuals, who lie in 30,000 burial sites and under 14,000 headstones.  Famous figures interred at the site include J. Edgar Hoover and John Philip Sousa.  Others include Elbridge Gerry, a signer of the Declaration of Independence; Robert Mills, designer of the Washington Monument; and Belva Lockwood, who in 1884 was either the first or second woman to run for president (apparently there is debate on this topic, see here).

A number of more “ordinary” interesting characters buried at the Congressional Cemetery who have added their unique flair to DC include Mary Ann Hall, a high-end brothel owner; Marie Claire Fuller, a once famous silent film actress who died forgotten in a mental institution; and Matthew Brady, the father of photojournalism who covered the Civil War.

All of this and much more history can be learned during free Saturday tours at 11am, March through October.  Additionally, Civil War tours are held once a month on the afternoon.

In addition to the vast history that the Congressional Cemetery provides, the 35 acres of grounds are a serene haven in the midst of the bustling city.  Many nearby residents walk their dogs in the park, and birds and squirrels are easily observed in the large oak trees.

Whether you are a history buff or just curious to get a glimpse of the past, the Congressional Cemetery will offer you new insight into both our city and our nation.

To visit:  1801 E Street SE, (202) 543-0539, a few blocks from the Stadium-Armory and Potomac Avenue metro stations, and close to the 96 and other bus lines.  Open every day from dawn until dusk.

1 Comment

Filed under Activities, Deals and Steals, Museums

American History Through the Lens of the Mail: the National Postal Museum

The Smithsonian’s National Postal Museum is one of the most interesting and unique museums in our city.  On the surface it houses a history of the postal service throughout the centuries, but more deeply it is an American history museum, telling the story of our country by way of its letters, mail, and press.

 

Your journey through the museum begins along the path of the first mail route in the nation—the undeveloped road between New York and Boston that was used for mail service starting in 1673.  Mail carriers along the route would make notches in trees to mark the path through the woods and wilderness of the northeastern U.S.  As the mail system developed over the colonial years, it became intricately linked with the politics and feelings behind the revolutionary war.  Control of the mail system by the British was one of the first obstacles for colonial resistance to overcome, as only Loyalist postmasters who read all correspondence were employed, and many postmasters would not deliver revolutionary newspapers.  Eventually an independent post was developed, becoming another sore spot between the British and rising resistance.

 

These facts are only the very beginning of the relationship between the mail and U.S. history.  Other portions of the initial historical exhibit are dedicated to war time mail and the changing postal service as the nation expanded west, and the importance of railroads and other forms of transportation not only to keeping settlers informed but providing incentives for them to stake claims in the territories.  Interestingly, I learned that the Pony Express was actually only in service for less than two years, despite its romantic portrayals in westerns.

 

Mail has been transported in many ways throughout history—horse, stagecoach, riverboat, dogsled, skis, trucks, airplanes, and others.  Changing transportation methods of course revamped the face of the mail, and the museum has many life-sized methods of transportation (like mail truck and planes suspended from the ceiling) that serve as a jumping off point for this subject.

 

In addition to the exhibits featuring U.S. history, the Postal Museum has a very large collection of stamps and displays about stamp collecting (or philately, for those not in the know).  I had no idea there was so much to stamp collecting—it’s not just about the stamps themselves, but their irregularities, first editions, and special issues.  This is particularly interesting given the fact that stamps have only been around in the United States since 1847, and since 1840 in England.  Currently there is a wonderful exhibit celebrating 15 years of the National Postal Museum called “Alphabetilately” that describes in great detail the art of stamp collecting.

 

Today, the U.S. Postal Service delivers 200 billion pieces of mail every year, and 40% of the world’s mail passes through the U.S. postal system.  While the National Postal Museum looks at the history of our mail service, it is humbling to realize that we are still a part of our country’s history being made.  It is a very fine museum and well worth the visit.

 To visit:  2 Massachusetts Avenue NW, (202) 633-5555.  Open everyday 10am-5:30pm except Christmas Day.  Located just steps from the Union Station Metro.

4 Comments

Filed under Museums

Honoring Veterans and Preserving Culture: The National Museum of American Jewish Military History

Tucked away on a quiet street in Dupont Circle is a hidden museum that explores the accounts and history of Jewish-American war veterans since the Civil War.  The National Museum of American Jewish Military History is a small treasure trove that documents U.S. history through the eyes of Jewish soldiers, servicewomen, rabbis, and others who have served our country during times of strife.

The museum shares space with the Jewish War Veterans of the U.S.A., a service organization that supports and assists veterans.  It was founded in 1896 as the Hebrew Union Veterans Association to combat anti-Semitic accusations that Jews did not serve their country during the Civil War.  After a handful of name changes, the current name was decided upon in 1929.

The NMAJMH covers two levels and is divided into a handful of exhibits, some of which are permanent and others which are rotating.  One of the most powerful is devoted to the experiences of Jewish GIs arriving at and freeing prisoners from Nazi concentration camps.  Some American Jewish soldiers spoke Yiddish or other European languages, which was extremely important to organizing the survivors, and provided immense comfort.  Many GIs established life-long friendships or romances with former prisoners or others displaced by the war, and a handful of these stories are displayed with photographs, letters, and other artifacts.

Other exhibits at the NMAJMH include those on female Jewish veterans during World War II; the Hall of Heroes, which lists biographies all of those Jewish vets who have received the Congressional Medal of Honor; and a look at how American Jewish war veterans protested and organized against Nazi Germany in the 1930s and 1940s.

What I liked best about this museum in particular is that it is completely told through the eyes of individuals, and therefore has an extraordinarily personal feel, rather than a more overarching and “curated” experience as is the case with most history museums.  So, for example, the exhibit on servicewomen during World War II features the handwritten letters, uniforms, and oral histories of women such as Frances Slanger, the first American nurse to die during World War II.  It is refreshing to be in a museum that so thoroughly focuses on the real people who were a part of history, rather than the history itself.

And, the museum is full of objects donated by veterans, each with its own story and associated memories.  One of my favorites was a small collection of “trench art,” or art made on the front lines during World War I using materials on hand like canteens, bullets, and other pieces from the war.

Chartered in 1958, the museum not only documents history, but actively works to educate the public.  It provides classes, lectures, author talks, and partners with other organizations like Theater J to bring history to life on the stage.  The museum also is still actively looking for donations to the archives, seeking to grow and enhance its collections.  As the U.S. is still engaged in wars in which Jews are serving the museum truly is living history.

To visit:  1811 R St. NW, 202-265-6280.  Open Monday-Friday 9am-5pm.  Dupont Circle metro or many buses. Tours available upon request.

1 Comment

Filed under Arts and Entertainment, Museums

Following the Road to Women’s Equality at the Sewall Belmont House

DC is full of museums for various historical niches, like the National Postal Museum and the Anacostia Community Museum.  One of the finest and most unique is the Sewall Belmont House and Museum, which is dedicated to preserving the history of the fight for women’s rights and suffrage in America.

Sewall Belmont is located in a regal old mansion on Capitol Hill that served for many years as the headquarters of the National Woman’s Party.  NWP was founded in 1917 in order to strongly advocate for women’s suffrage by endorsing candidates and politicians who supported it and withholding support from those who did not.  The heroine of the movement, especially after the deaths of Susan B. Anthony and Elizabeth Cady Stanton in the early 1900s, was Alice Paul, who devoted her entire life to women’s rights and equality.  Paul lived in the Sewall Belmont House after it was donated to the cause by a wealthy and eccentric member of the NWP, Alva Belmont.

Tours of the museum, which just re-opened after extensive renovations, are self-guided and should take about an hour.  The downstairs potion features marble statues and beautiful paintings of important figures in the women’s movement, as well as a detailed history of the tactics NWP members took part in such as letter-writing campaigns, protesting, and hunger strikes in jail.  In the early days, they fought for the 19th Amendment, which passed in 1920.  Later, NWP members strove to pass the Equal Rights Amendment to the Constitution, which has not passed to this day, despite being introduced in every session of Congress.

The upstairs rooms are the locations for short-term exhibits, which when I visited was the fight for women’s rights during World War I.  Sewall Belmont has a good relationship with the Woodrow Wilson House (another excellent museum) as well as other museums in the city, so the traveling exhibits are quite good.  One of my favorite items on display in the house is a set of laminated lobby reports that NWP lobbyists filled out religiously in order to keep track of how members of Congress were on their issues.  It’s quite enlightening to see the volunteers’ scrawled or typewritten notes, including those for members that were against their cause; indeed, one reads that the Senator was opposed because “women already have enough rights”!  The effort that went into this cause was astounding, especially when large-scale advocacy campaigns were not the norm like they are today.

One of the best parts of Sewall Belmont is its role in continuing the fight for equality.  Modern-day female politicians are featured in exhibits, and examples of inequality that remain today—did you know that there have been 270 female members of Congress, but that that represents only 2.1% of members ever elected?  Sewall Belmont is an excellent place to visit to gain insight not only into the history of the fight for equality in America, but into its future.

To visit:  144 Constitution Avenue, NE, Washington, DC 20002.  (202) 546-1210.  Wednesday-Sunday, 12-5pm.  Metro to Union Station, or 96 bus.

**Special thanks to local photographer and graphic designer Katie Campbell for the photographs featured in this post!  Please visit her new and improved website!

1 Comment

Filed under Museums

President Lincoln’s Cottage: A Glimpse Into a President and a City Under Siege

Tucked in a pleasant wooded area just a 10-minute drive north from the center of DC is President Lincoln’s Cottage, the place where our 16th President spent more than a quarter of his Presidency and drafted the Emancipation Proclamation.  The house is a veritable shrine to Lincoln and the Civil War, and is self-dubbed “the most significant historic site directly associated with Lincoln’s presidency aside from the White House.”  The site was designated as a National Monument in 2000, yet only opened to the public in 2008.

The cottage—that’s a term used lightly, it’s actually a nicely-sized house—is on the grounds of the Soldier’s Home, a fully-functioning retirement home devoted to career veterans.  The veterans’ home has existed since 1851, long before the location gained fame for housing brooding presidents.  In fact, presidents were invited to stay at the cottage in order to build political support for the struggling retirement home.  Presidents Buchanan, Hayes, and Arthur also all stayed for some period on the grounds.

President Lincoln and his family lived in the cottage during the summers of 1862-1864 as a respite from the hot weather of DC, but the President would commute the three miles to the White House every day.  I was tickled by how our tour guide referred to his journey as “though the wilderness,” back in the day when there was no such thing as Petworth and the city ended at W Street!

The Visitor Education Center is your first stop on the tour, the second and only other stop being the cottage itself.  The education center is filled with information about Lincoln, the prelude to the Civil War, and the war itself.  It is a fancily-curated visitor’s center, with touch screens and videos and other technological gadgets that are sure to keep you engaged and informed prior to the tour.

One of my favorite aspects of President Lincoln’s Cottage is the exhibits devoted to the history of Washington, DC during the Civil War.  I guess I hadn’t realized that the war happened here, right in our midst, with forts surrounding the city outskirts, wounded soldiers in makeshift hospitals, and tens of thousands of freed slaves lending a hand to the war effort.  The city was only about 60 years old at the time of the war, and the exhibits did a great job of explaining how frightening it was that such a young capital city came under such intense threats.

After spending time in the education center you set out on the guided tour of the cottage.  Because it only opened to the public a few years ago, the house itself is still being remodeled and refurbished.  It’s nothing like other grand, furnished DC homes such as the Brewmaster’s Castle and Woodrow Wilson’s house, but it’s only going to get better over the next few years as more money is raised for preservation.  Nevertheless, it’s an excellent experience to be in the same hallowed space that Lincoln lived and worked.

Washington, DC is filled with historic sites and homages to our famous politicos, but President Lincoln’s Cottage feels different for some reason.  Perhaps it’s that when the breeze blows just the right way up on the hill, you can begin to feel the magnitude of the decisions the President had to make at this location.  Whatever it is, it’s well worth a visit, and you’ll come away feeling a new appreciation for Lincoln and the tragedy of the Civil War.

To visit:  140 Rock Creek Church Road NW, 202-829-0436.  Open Monday-Saturday 9:30am-4:30pm and Sunday 11:30am-5:30pm, tours almost every hour.  H8 bus will stop at the gate.  Adults $12 tickets, some discounts apply.



2 Comments

Filed under Activities, Museums